Travelling in Ethiopia

Two weeks ago, I arrived in Addis Ababa, and I seem to settle in just fine. I already can’t wait for the rain to stop, I eat injera at least once a week, and I don’t even look at the giant turtles with amazement anymore! I have already learned crucial lessons about Ethiopia and Ethiopians and I spent last weekend travelling in the countryside. So here is what I learned and feel free to have a look at the pictures for more details:
1. My worse enemy, like in India is needing the loo. Toilets are mostly disgusting. They are what we called Turkish toilets with no flush and basket on the side for your used toilet paper. They stink horribly and shelter weird bugs. In addition, they are often completely in the dark which does not help. So, tea drinkers, well don’t before to travel! Funny thing is that toilets are called Shinte bet which I think sounds lovely!
2. Ethiopians are really smiley and polite people. When you meet them, you should always ask how they are, how their family are and also shake their hand. You shake with your right hand or wrist if your hands are dirty. When they give you some money back, you should collect it with your right hand whilst holding your wrist with your left hand.
3. Begging is illegal in Ethiopia. Ethiopians seem quite generous and always give to beggars but you can get fined for it. It is better to buy food for them and when you go out of Addis, take pens for the kids. Poverty is less overwhelming here than it was in India because beggars insist less than in India and you see a bit less kids. People try to sell something rather than just ask for money, it is still overwhelming at first and you should get used to see people sleeping in the street, way to skinny and kids that should be in school trying to make a few birrs in the street.
4. Whatever nationality you are, you are a forenge for Ethiopians and they happily shout it at you in the street with a huge smile. The best answer is to shout Shabitats at them, which apparently means Ethiopian. They also shouts (I strongly believe they think we are all deaf) every sentence they know in English. So the other day, a young boy came to me to say very proudly: “Why, that is not your business”!
5. Have your camera ready. Some amazing things happen on the road: cows on the highway, several monkeys crossing just in front of the car, amazing faces, even if you should avoid taking pictures of Ethiopians unless they agree, woman or kid carrying several time their weight in wood or leaves…
6. Ethiopians are proud, very proud. I like that because, well I am French so I understand the feeling!
7. Don’t drive if you can avoid. Roads are chaos and they are dangerous potholes on every road. Ethiopians have no idea that cars kill and cross whenever they want. It is the same rule than in India, the bigger you are, the more power you have. So priority works as follow: the normal car yields for the 4X4 which yields for the bus, which yields for the truck which can do whatever it decides!
8. Don’t eat anything you are not sure the provenance of and wash your hands before you eat (I haven’t felt sick yet, touch wood, so it works!).
9. Don’t trust Ethiopian’s maps or people indicating you the way, they have no idea but will tell you to go straight, just in case.
Once the rules are learned, travelling in Ethiopia is easy. People are really nice and proud of their country and happy to give you a tour and information. It is surprisingly green because of the rain, and there is amazingly beautiful thing just an hour from Addis.