Travels broaden the minds, so I've heard. Two years based in Ethiopia should be very exciting. You will find on these pages my impressions on Africa and may be on some other continents...

Les voyages forment la jeunesse parait-il. Deux années en Éthiopie devraient être passionnantes! Vous trouverez ici mes impressions de l'Afrique et peut être même sur d'autres continents...


Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Mescal

Malkam Meskal

Last Sunday night was a special celebration in Ethiopia. It was the day of the New Cross. Despite the fact that I still don’t really get why there was a party, Ben and I had loads of fun. We went to Mescal square (the Ethiopian equivalent of Place de la Concorde in Paris, or may be Trafalgar Square in London) on Sunday around 4.30. It was packed with people, may be 100,000, may be more. Loads of policeman to ensure security, a few religious dignitaries, some politics, and a sea of people on the other side. We had to fight our way to the top of the hill to try to see the street (I could not see a thing), but here we were, at the heart of the Ethiopian community, hearing speeches in Amharic (apparently translated into English, but may be not the same English than you and I spoke), hearing people clapping and singing every so often and really wondering what on earth this was all about.
After a good hour and a half of speeches, the music started. Music? I am not sure that is how to best define what we heard, someone singing/screaming with a very high pitch Pepe de la Matronne voice, with no instrumental background. But as I was thinking what on earth am I doing here (lämin, lämin? = why in Amharic), the magic started to happen. As the sun went down, hundreds of people lighted up candles and the square just illuminated itself. People started singing and clapping, and people sat down. The Ethiopian around us tried to move around to make sure we could see the stage (where nothing really exciting happened), but I was fascinated by the sea of lights (see pictures). A very small fire work lit up the sky, and Ethiopian got very excited. Of course, it was not Guy Folk or a 14 of July, but I felt emotional faced with the small, one by one fire work. I realised what it represented for all the people here, the immense joy they felt, the feeling of communion and regeneration: may be this year would be a better year. People around us were so nice, trying to help me take pictures, smiling and excited that foreigners assisted to their national party. I think they were very proud.
The apogee of the party was the lighting up of the bond fire. After 20 minutes of screaming, it was a real show: a huge bond fire illuminated the square with people screaming and dancing. We left with every body else in a complete chaos (as you would expect), and saw on our way home that the party was only starting. Every 20 meters, neighbours were preparing their more modest bond fire, singing and dancing around the fire.
What an evening! I really enjoyed the simplicity yet the strength of the event. I felt really happy and touched by the pride of the Ethiopian people. I wished I could describe the evening better, but it is a one time experience which is hard to depict. I hope it made you curious and that you guys want to come next year to celebrate the new cross with us!

Tuesday, September 21, 2010

What is it to do when it rains?

The rainy season, I have mentioned several times already, is a pain. You wake up, it is bright, sunny and warm, by lunch, clouds of rain have accumulated in the sky, and you can be sure that in the afternoon, it is going to become very very dark and rain is going to fall from the sky. This is exactly what has just happened. i just came back from some shopping when it started. I know have understood that there is no point going out under this type of rain, you get wet even under an umbrella. So I cuddle up on my coach, in a primark cover, light up a fire (yes, all by myself!) and except that I am missing chocolate (especially M&Ms at present), I feel pretty cosy!

Insolite

This afternoon, I saw an Ethiopian with a mullet.

Monday, September 20, 2010

Travelling in Ethiopia

Two weeks ago, I arrived in Addis Ababa, and I seem to settle in just fine. I already can’t wait for the rain to stop, I eat injera at least once a week, and I don’t even look at the giant turtles with amazement anymore! I have already learned crucial lessons about Ethiopia and Ethiopians and I spent last weekend travelling in the countryside. So here is what I learned and feel free to have a look at the pictures for more details:
1. My worse enemy, like in India is needing the loo. Toilets are mostly disgusting. They are what we called Turkish toilets with no flush and basket on the side for your used toilet paper. They stink horribly and shelter weird bugs. In addition, they are often completely in the dark which does not help. So, tea drinkers, well don’t before to travel! Funny thing is that toilets are called Shinte bet which I think sounds lovely!
2. Ethiopians are really smiley and polite people. When you meet them, you should always ask how they are, how their family are and also shake their hand. You shake with your right hand or wrist if your hands are dirty. When they give you some money back, you should collect it with your right hand whilst holding your wrist with your left hand.
3. Begging is illegal in Ethiopia. Ethiopians seem quite generous and always give to beggars but you can get fined for it. It is better to buy food for them and when you go out of Addis, take pens for the kids. Poverty is less overwhelming here than it was in India because beggars insist less than in India and you see a bit less kids. People try to sell something rather than just ask for money, it is still overwhelming at first and you should get used to see people sleeping in the street, way to skinny and kids that should be in school trying to make a few birrs in the street.
4. Whatever nationality you are, you are a forenge for Ethiopians and they happily shout it at you in the street with a huge smile. The best answer is to shout Shabitats at them, which apparently means Ethiopian. They also shouts (I strongly believe they think we are all deaf) every sentence they know in English. So the other day, a young boy came to me to say very proudly: “Why, that is not your business”!
5. Have your camera ready. Some amazing things happen on the road: cows on the highway, several monkeys crossing just in front of the car, amazing faces, even if you should avoid taking pictures of Ethiopians unless they agree, woman or kid carrying several time their weight in wood or leaves…
6. Ethiopians are proud, very proud. I like that because, well I am French so I understand the feeling!
7. Don’t drive if you can avoid. Roads are chaos and they are dangerous potholes on every road. Ethiopians have no idea that cars kill and cross whenever they want. It is the same rule than in India, the bigger you are, the more power you have. So priority works as follow: the normal car yields for the 4X4 which yields for the bus, which yields for the truck which can do whatever it decides!
8. Don’t eat anything you are not sure the provenance of and wash your hands before you eat (I haven’t felt sick yet, touch wood, so it works!).
9. Don’t trust Ethiopian’s maps or people indicating you the way, they have no idea but will tell you to go straight, just in case.
Once the rules are learned, travelling in Ethiopia is easy. People are really nice and proud of their country and happy to give you a tour and information. It is surprisingly green because of the rain, and there is amazingly beautiful thing just an hour from Addis.

What altitude does to you...

A very small blog between two job applications on altitude. Addis Ababa is between 2300 et 2500 meters above the sea level, and the compound must be closer to the 2500 (at least I hope so), as a result, I am loosing my breath every time I go to the stable and I can’t talk and walk. Yeast does not rise the same way and my only attempt to make bread was not a success, I will leave this delicate task to Almaz, my great cook. Things cook a lot faster here, but they don’t grill, which is quiet surprising. Altitude also keeps you awake at night first ( or may be it is the Ethiopian coffee?), so most night, I wake up around 2am and can’t get back to sleep, which is unusual for me. So I wake up fine and then suddenly in the middle of the day, I feel very tired, and then I am fine again.
When my luggage finally turns up, I need to start running, how funny is that going to be if I can’t even walk slowly? I will let you know soon (hopefully). By the way I am running a 10K in November. Apparently, everybody in Ethiopia does it (even the ambassador), and there is so many people that you can’t really run (good news!) at the start and at the end.

Friday, September 17, 2010

My driver Abel

I know I am late in my postings and I should try to keep it chronological, but I have to do a small posting on my driver Abel. Recommended by the driver of a friend of mine, Abel is pretty much unique. He is a cameraman (or may be that is the only job he knows in English so he says so, who knows...). He is 29, married with one son of 4. His English is as good as my Amharic and let me tell you, our conversations are very amusing. He perfected the art of saying OK at the right time like if he actually understood what I said. He is a great teacher and already taught me to count, the day of the week and we are on small sentences such as I live in Addis, or we can meet at 3.30 (I haven’t perfected these yet!).
Abel is a real Ethiopian, he speaks in Ethiopian time, so if I want him to pick me up at 10am, I have to translate it to 4 Ethiopian time. First time I got it wrong and had to wait for an hour, not fun. He was late on our first meeting, so he always completes my schedule by a “OK, 4 sharp” which is hilarious when he says it. He does something funny with his eyebrows at the same time which makes it a really serious business. When I stupidly asked him what his name meant, he looked at me like if I am a complete ignorant and asked me: Do you know the bible, old testament? Yes, of course, Abel and Cain, silly me. But now, every time I asked him what a name means, he has the same answer and I am pretty sure that “Tadhu” does not come from the bible!
I got to say I was not a big fan of him. First he was late, then he really can’t speak English and he does not know much about Addis. But he is growing on me, because he tries hard and I would be really lost in Addis without him. Today, we met at 8.30 ethiopian time, sharp; we did 3 times Bole road (a huge huge street) to find a art gallery to print some pictures that I could not find after what he took me to the place where he goes… which appeared to be just under the gallery, we had a good laugh. And then came a unique moment. Michael Jackson came onto the radio and we sang together Billy Jean!!!! You can’t imagine how I felt. I don’t know the lyrics, he does not know English but we were both mumbling at first and then frankly singing. Ah, Michael Jackson, internationally renowned and I felt a bit less lonely. He just won a one month contract with the Embassy!

On another note, thank you so much for the one reading me and for your lovely messages, it means a lot for me (Papa, maman, je suis super impressionée!!!)

Thursday, September 16, 2010

Ethiopie first week



More pitures.The house and garden you see are mine!!!
Thank you so much for all your messages.

2010-09-12 Ethiopie - wenchi cratere



My pictures!

Addis Ababa, the new flower

Addis is a bizarre city. First some quick facts:
History: founded in 1886 by emperor Menelik II
Population: 3,384,569
Altitude: between 2300 and 3000 metres
Its name means new flower in Amharic, but believe me, it has nothing in common with a flower: it is ugly, very very polluted, no green whatsoever, very muddy during rainy season at least and it is in perpetual construction. At this point, you must think, great place to live! Well, actually it is. The town as a “je ne sais quoi” which make it vibrant. People are really lovely, shops are welcoming, there is tarmac everywhere (something that should never be taken for granted, ask my friend in Tanzania) and there is an intense yet not overwhelming activity. There is a lot of markets, vegetable shops, people doing stuff in the street such as washing your shoes, selling tissues or socks, walking somewhere in stilettos or in a more traditional outfit. I have been quite a few times now and I am still amazed by how I feel every time.
My first time, I went in bus (yes mam, in bus!!!!!!!) all by myself. And not once I felt threatened or just uncomfortable because of my European status. I was in a very crowded stinky bus, with only one fear, to miss my stop: Harat kilo. The trip costs 2birr (8cents), and they stopped only a few time. Each time, a guy shouts the name of the stop. A piece of cake! I walked to a “supermarket” (a small shop with a bit of everything) to find some cotton buds (apparently a rare thing in Addis), bought something for the pleasure to say thank you in Amharic and make a few people laugh, walked up to Sediest kilo, the next round about, stopped by the dry cleaner to pick up Ben’s suits, had my photo taken for my visa, visited the national museum where Lucie, our old ancestor is, and came back to the embassy. People said hi, someone came to introduce himself, I made a few people laugh (especially in the museum, apparently I have more success than Lucie! Age before beauty isn’t it?) and I felt great walking by myself. I actually really like Addis, it is surprising at time, very colourful, a bit daunting because so big, but it is a real adventure, I will meet a lot of nice people and despite the poverty and the people who are mutilated, I don’t feel too overwhelmed. I think it is less tough than India and people are not over you all the time.
I have since done my shopping all by myself and bought my first cross (negotiated down to 100 birr!, £4). The vegetable shop is my favourite place. The guy knows me now and every time he greets me by Ben’s friend (gwadannya). I buy a lot of fruits and veg for more or less 150 birr (£7) and he chooses them one by one (2kilos of tomatoes chosen one by one can take some time). The supermarkets are a bit unremarkable and expensive I found. The westerner’s favourite, Bambis, is Greek-owned, so you can find tahini and olives but it is seriously missing of nice chocolate, so if you ever fancy sending me something…
I got an emergency leak in my bathroom and a man explaining in half Amharic half English that it is because of the overflow, I have to go!

Day 1: Sur les chapeaux de roue!

D1, 10am (ie 4 ethiopian time, yes it is confusing but you better get the time right as early as possible or spend your time waiting for people). So 10am, on Saturday morning, I got invited for a nice ride in the mountain behind the compound. I haven’t horse ride since I was 12, but I am hoping it is like biking, you never forget. So here I am, wellies and hat on, riding Kapena, a lovely stable horse. The view of Addis from the top of the hill is stunning. It is a really really big town, very polluted and not that pretty, but in the middle of the green forest, strolling on my horse, I am not that bothered. The thing about Addis (I am anticipating on my next post) is that after a few hours, you don’t care about the pollution and the construction and the ugly buildings because it is such an easy place to live in. But let’s go back on top of the hill, where I am with a few FCO people, riding in a nice forest. The hill is lovely, loads of sheeps (apparently, there is a sheep market somewhere), donkeys, young children picking up grass and climbing up trees to pick up the eucalyptus leaves. They look like monkeys; they go up with just their hands and feet and wave to us!

As I am enjoying the view and the peacefulness of this moment, my colleagues decide it is time for a bit of trot… Well, I mustn’t have looked too glorious because after one minute, the guides decide to put me on a lounge. It is not like biking after all and my bottom hurt for 2 days afterward. But my instructor taught me how to follow the move of the horse, and by the end of the promenade, I was feeling a lot more confident. Despite the rain (yes, it is raining season and you should never, never go out without an umbrella), I had a great time and what a wonderful way to start my stay! I am pretty sure you will hear about Kapena and my horse riding progress in the near future.

Tuesday, September 7, 2010

From Addis with Love.

Getting through the custom in Ethiopia is a really fascinating experience and teaches you a lot about the country and the people. All excited about the perspective to see my Ben, I did not expect that it would take me half an hour to get through the gate to Zion! Here is what I learned from this:
1) In Ethiopia, nobody queues (coming from London, it is a whole new experience)
2) In Ethiopia, not that many people actually speak English
3) Having 5 people behind the counter does not speed things up
4) Having 6 people behind the counter does not speed things up either
When I finally got my stamp, I just couldn’t wait to see Mon Ben, and here he was, handsome as ever, grinning as Cheshire cat and just as fantastic as when I left him more than 2 months ago.

He drove me back to the compound in our white 4X4 Toyota cruiser, avoiding buses, donkeys, sheep, pedestrians and the eventual potholes. The compound is just AMAZING, green grass, weird trees, strange birds, huge turtles and lovely guards. Our house is 5 minutes away from the gate which is nice because I don’t feel too enclosed. It s big, 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 1 study, 1 living room, 1 dining room, a big kitchen and a beautiful garden full of colours. It feels very cosy and there is flower everywhere.

For lunch, I meet our two employees, Almaz (life in Amahric) the cook and Tadu the cleaner. They are lovely with a good level of English and very very efficient. Rachid our gardener is old, don’t speak a word of English and is just so sweet I wish he was my grandfather. It is hard to believe he actually manages to take care of the garden by himself. After a lovely lunch I toured my new propriety. Man, it is just fantastic, it is big, there is a golf course, a small swimming pool, a stable (yes I did say a stable!), a tennis court and some beautiful buildings. I think Ben and I are going to be very happy here.

Traduction française à suivre…

A380, and the battle is over

In different sectors, you often have two big champions fighting one the other for customers. Generally, they manage to gather unconditional fans. Example, a Coca-cola fan will prefer to drink an orange juice than to settle for a Pepsi and a McDonald’s lover will rather have a pizza than stopping by a Burger King. In the flight industries, there were Airbus and Boeing… until the A380 signed the undisputable victory of Airbus. I am a huge fan of this plane as I spend six hours comfortably seated, with leg room, watching movies and eating loads. I even manage to sleep! I arrived on Friday at Bole Airport, Ethiopia, ready for some adventures!

Dans la plupart des industries, deux géants s’affrontent réunissant dans leur camp des fans inconditionnels. Exemple: quelqu’un qui boit du coca-cola changera de boisson plutôt que de prendre un Pepsi, un amoureux de Quick préférera manger une pizza plutôt que d’aller chez Mcdo. Dans le monde du voyage, il y avait Airbus et Boeing… Puis l’A380 est arrivé et avec lui la victoire indiscutable d’Airbus. Je suis devenue une partisane de cette petite merveille après six heures de confort incroyable pour un avion, de film à volonté et d’espace pour les jambes. J’ai même dormi! Bref, c’est sans courbatures que je suis arrivée vendredi à Bole Airport Ethiopia.