Friday, my friend Yasmin took me for my first wedding dress shopping, and in Ethiopia believe me, wedding dresses is no small matters. Pass the first choc of seeing myself in a full bridal gown; I have to say it was certainly one of the funniest afternoons ever!
Tiara, lead glass, beads, layer and layer of crinoline, taffeta, satin, veils and trains did make me look like a princess escaping a fairy tale book. I tried on 5 dresses, and looked pretty ridiculous in most of them! I wish I had taken pictures.
I also learned a lot about the wedding industry in Ethiopia. Wedding are expensive everywhere, and Ethiopia is no exception. Apparently, Ethiopian men build on astronomical debt to give their beloved one the day (actually the three days) of their dream:
-wedding dress, to RENT for 1 day, between 4000 and 9000 birr (= 150 to 300 pounds)
-bridesmaid dresses, between 2000 and 5000 birr (80 to 230 pounds)
-rented car for the day (Mercedes or Limousine) between 20,000 and 40,000 birr a day! (750 to 1400 pounds)
-cameraman, 4000 birr a day (150 pounds)
Also, the married couple will need two different venues for the two official dinners they have to hold. Their party will generally be composed of 1500 people (family tied are pretty immense in this country) that they will need to feed and water (actually water needs to be read here as T’allat for this case, which is a locally made beer or T’ej, the locally made honey wine). They will need a band, flowers and a DJ. Ethiopian’s salary, for the very lucky ones, goes from 1200 birr to 30,000 birr a year… How do they do it?
Monday, May 16, 2011
Monday, May 9, 2011
Tuesday, April 26, 2011
Djibouti, my first business trip
Last Sunday, my working status took an unexpected turn when I was sent to Djibouti to interpret for Igad. My flights were bought for me, my hotel was booked for me and I was even given some per diem! Suddenly, I was becoming an interpreter of international standard… Well, I should mention that Djibouti apparently has no interpreters at all, which is very bizarre for people who naturally speak at least four languages.
Anyway, here I am leaving Ethiopia for the first time in 7 months and going to this old French colony, bordering the red sea. All I can think about is eating fish and going to Casino to buy some cheese and saucisson! I am also pretty excited by the perspective to visit Djibouti, famous for its lovely town center and the Kempinsky, luxurious hotel where the conference will be held.
In the flight, I meet with Pascaline, my fellow interpreter, a lovely French girl who has already been to Djibouti many times. After a chaotic flight (apparently, Orangina-sponsored landings are a big hit in Djibouti), and a very long wait for our visa, I am entering a new country… Well, at least a new city, Djibouti is really really small, and so is Djibouti city. The first thing I notice is the heat, after 1 minute 30 seconds, every ounce of my skin is covered in sweat (yes, nice), it is 8 pm and it must at least be 35 degree. After dropping my stuff at the hotel, a very ugly carpeted building (I am not kidding, there even was carpet on the outside wall, because of course it is a well known fact that nothing better than carpet can keep the coolness), I am ready to get out again.
A short taxi ride later, costing 1000 djibouti franc, and I am walking along the only two lighted streets of Djibouti. I am slightly disappointed. It is very dirty, not that pretty, and people, under the influence of ch’at are aggressive. Every body talks to you: “t’es francaise?”, and men are very flirty. I end up in a greasy spoon at the end of a road called Blue Nile. The fish, a creamy sea bream, is excellent despite the low hygiene of the place. I take a picture of the place, and two veiled ladies just shout at me, “if my husband see the pictures, he will beat me…”, how lovely. I show them the picture I took, the hall were I ate, with two shadow completely covered, how on earth is someone going to be able to identify you on that, and why would your husband see it? Does not matter, is the answer, you erase. HUM, I am definitely not so sure about Djibouti, I am hot, I found the people incredibly unpleasant, I am hot, I don’t find the city that attractive, and also, I am way too hot.
The morning after, following a long debate with myself on what is worse, the heat or the noise of the air con?, I am ready to go to work. The Kempinsky is beautiful, the sea is so tempting, the food is delicious, a much better day, especially after a small nap near the pool. In the evening, my colleague takes me out with her Djibouti friend to a lovely restaurant on the sea shore. The place is beautiful, very oriental and lighted by a full moon. The temperature has also dropped to a reasonable 28. Pascaline’s friends are lovely, the three of them are wearing a veil, they switch non stop between French and Arabic, and they are really good fun. I hear about aquagym in a burkini, about husband left at home for this girl evening, about working for the education sector, about putting on weight after getting married. The cultural experience is really unique and my respect for Djibouti people increases a lot.
Last day of translation, we finish at 4pm. I jump in a swimming suit and Pascaline and her friend take me to the sea. After a quick stop in the poorest area of Djibouti (Djibouti a middle income country, not so convinced about it), we arrive at the beach. The red sea… warm, salty, lovely. It is a real pleasure, despite the rocks which are very hard to avoid (ask my knee). That is the one thing missing in Ethiopia, no access whatsoever to the sea. To finish the trip, a calm evening at the hotel watching a Bollywood and thinking that it is a lot more fun with my sister!
So to conclude this long post, Djibouti? Not really my cup of tea, but I am sure it is a fantastic place for snorkeling and whale shark swimming if you can afford the Kempinsky!
Anyway, here I am leaving Ethiopia for the first time in 7 months and going to this old French colony, bordering the red sea. All I can think about is eating fish and going to Casino to buy some cheese and saucisson! I am also pretty excited by the perspective to visit Djibouti, famous for its lovely town center and the Kempinsky, luxurious hotel where the conference will be held.
In the flight, I meet with Pascaline, my fellow interpreter, a lovely French girl who has already been to Djibouti many times. After a chaotic flight (apparently, Orangina-sponsored landings are a big hit in Djibouti), and a very long wait for our visa, I am entering a new country… Well, at least a new city, Djibouti is really really small, and so is Djibouti city. The first thing I notice is the heat, after 1 minute 30 seconds, every ounce of my skin is covered in sweat (yes, nice), it is 8 pm and it must at least be 35 degree. After dropping my stuff at the hotel, a very ugly carpeted building (I am not kidding, there even was carpet on the outside wall, because of course it is a well known fact that nothing better than carpet can keep the coolness), I am ready to get out again.
A short taxi ride later, costing 1000 djibouti franc, and I am walking along the only two lighted streets of Djibouti. I am slightly disappointed. It is very dirty, not that pretty, and people, under the influence of ch’at are aggressive. Every body talks to you: “t’es francaise?”, and men are very flirty. I end up in a greasy spoon at the end of a road called Blue Nile. The fish, a creamy sea bream, is excellent despite the low hygiene of the place. I take a picture of the place, and two veiled ladies just shout at me, “if my husband see the pictures, he will beat me…”, how lovely. I show them the picture I took, the hall were I ate, with two shadow completely covered, how on earth is someone going to be able to identify you on that, and why would your husband see it? Does not matter, is the answer, you erase. HUM, I am definitely not so sure about Djibouti, I am hot, I found the people incredibly unpleasant, I am hot, I don’t find the city that attractive, and also, I am way too hot.
The morning after, following a long debate with myself on what is worse, the heat or the noise of the air con?, I am ready to go to work. The Kempinsky is beautiful, the sea is so tempting, the food is delicious, a much better day, especially after a small nap near the pool. In the evening, my colleague takes me out with her Djibouti friend to a lovely restaurant on the sea shore. The place is beautiful, very oriental and lighted by a full moon. The temperature has also dropped to a reasonable 28. Pascaline’s friends are lovely, the three of them are wearing a veil, they switch non stop between French and Arabic, and they are really good fun. I hear about aquagym in a burkini, about husband left at home for this girl evening, about working for the education sector, about putting on weight after getting married. The cultural experience is really unique and my respect for Djibouti people increases a lot.
Last day of translation, we finish at 4pm. I jump in a swimming suit and Pascaline and her friend take me to the sea. After a quick stop in the poorest area of Djibouti (Djibouti a middle income country, not so convinced about it), we arrive at the beach. The red sea… warm, salty, lovely. It is a real pleasure, despite the rocks which are very hard to avoid (ask my knee). That is the one thing missing in Ethiopia, no access whatsoever to the sea. To finish the trip, a calm evening at the hotel watching a Bollywood and thinking that it is a lot more fun with my sister!
So to conclude this long post, Djibouti? Not really my cup of tea, but I am sure it is a fantastic place for snorkeling and whale shark swimming if you can afford the Kempinsky!
Wednesday, April 13, 2011
To be continued...
- I have hand-fed the second most dangerous predator in Africa (Harar, january 2011)
- Like Orpheus, I have been through hell, and came out alive. (lalibela, October 2010)
- I have sat on top of the world twice (east of Lalibela, October 2010, Tigray, April 2011)
- I have sang New York New York on top of the Empire State building (NYC, December 2005)
- I have survived Katrina, and got a lot more than a lousy tee-shirt out of it (Louisiana, August 2005)
- Like Orpheus, I have been through hell, and came out alive. (lalibela, October 2010)
- I have sat on top of the world twice (east of Lalibela, October 2010, Tigray, April 2011)
- I have sang New York New York on top of the Empire State building (NYC, December 2005)
- I have survived Katrina, and got a lot more than a lousy tee-shirt out of it (Louisiana, August 2005)
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